How To Clean Out A Quadrajet Carburetor Without Rebuild

I desire to clean my single barrel carburetor before rebuilding. I went to my local automotive supply store to observe a cleaner that I can immerse my carb into for a adept cleaning, the only product they had was a gallon container for $40.00. surely there must be a cheaper fashion? someone told me to use varsol, will this
work?
Thanks

I use the choke cleaners that are bachelor in a spray can.also have had good results with brake cleaner.It very heavy dingy areas I help to remove the clay along with a castor.Attaching the fiddling tube to the nozzel is slap-up for cleaning out the carb. passages.

if y'all want to practice it without immersion soaking the carb, which I reccommend highly, then a good "poor boy" method is apply a full can of B-12 it is in a crimson ,blue, and white tin Auto store or Walmart in the droplets can with the cherry spray tube, Be Conscientious! this stuff contains tolulene and other highly flammable materials...and release hazardous fumes. employ outside in a well ventilated area! completely remove the throttle base, float bowl, and choke bowl , purchase a rebuild kit (NAPA) and have out the internal parts includeing the power jet, spray the B-12 thru all the small-scale holes within the throttle base of operations (cast Iron) even the idle jet and vacuum accelerate connection, then do the aforementioned with the float bowl and the choke bowl, take the bakelite embrace off the auto choke ,(if carb is a model BC)and clean the heat and vacuum tubes, after you are sure information technology is clean blow out with compressed air and then replace the parts that came with the NAPA repair kit, some of the gaskets won't fit your carb every bit this is a kit for many applications of the Rochester model B carb. and gear up the float driblet, and shutoff with the cardboard mensurate and be sure the bowls are not warped and volition fit together without any gaps and promise for the best. when you install to the engine utilize a new insulator, if equipted, and be sure all the lines are tightened snuggly,reinstall the idle air jet and manus tighten till it bottoms out so loosen 1 1/2 turns before starting the engine. if the vacuum line to the distributor is leaking the engine will sputter and run crude.
Good Luck!
P.S: it is a practiced idea to write all the numbers downward in a ledger includeing the the size main jet (stamped on the end) will exist a 49, 47, or number in that range.

I find soaking the the parts in diesel oil does a smashing job of cleaning carbs. A potent nylon parts cleaning bruch gets the heavy stuff out of the corners. And it's safe for all the parts. Exept the spacer and gaskets.

Thanks
Chevgene, MrMack and Ron from Canada

canuck,

I'm always careful when tightening needle jet screws...these tapers tin get unnecessarily tight very easily when you bottom them out...so, lesser them lightly...

epi

here is the Berrymans Chemtool (B-12)in aerosol can
[Linked Image from berrymanproducts.com]

The primary reason I use this for carbs I don't desire to immerse is; several years ago I had one of the start Evinrude outboard engines with an oil injector and I could non run the carbs (3) dry out by only disconnecting the fuel line, needless to say after a winter storage the engine ran poorly, I took it in to the OBM shop and they told me it would price over $150 to clean the carbs, $100 for showtime $50 for second and $50 for 3rd. I sprung for the full amount, even so I happened to sneek effectually the shop and watch, They sprayed the outside of the carbs with B-12, and poured some into the fuel line from the tank to the engine, cranked the engine while spraying the B-12 into the air intake, never tore anything down except for replaceing the fuel filter! And then later about a half 60 minutes of soaking they fired the engine up and it purred like a Cougar!, next yr ,I myself, performed the aforementioned high quality chore for less than $10 worth of Berryman Chemtool B 12.

Mr Mack, sounds like you go along that stuff right beside your barrel of Marvel Mystery oil?

Ron, I simply wish I could keep some, I am always having to become-to Wally Earth to become another couple of cans! Cars, trucks, boats, backyard mowers, weedeaters, domestic dog fleas, hemmoriods.... on 2nd idea don't use it on hemmoroids unless y'all have a fast chase plane!

It seam's that Mr Mack has all the answer's to near question's which is bang-up for us! Merely i have done information technology the poor man'southward way, and that is to boil it on the stove in a pot, and information technology has seamed too work ? i dont know if it is correct? but it worked. dont take it to heart Mack! merely hacking on you a little,

Ok Due north.J. but do you take the chicken out before yous put the carb in the pot. I would exercise that but I don't take whatever chickens, I think my O'Possum pot would be too greasy! Ha! I probably demand to come up out and visit you lot (all of your stashed parts) If I can get one of these former Chevys filled up with cheap gas!

Hum.......the only thing that I boil on the stove is my socks! And, fifty-fifty at that, only after I take been wearing them for a couple of weeks! :eek: :eek: :eek:

And this is why I love this site, Not but do you find out an answer to your problem
merely you get some great recipes also. Carburetor and chicken or maybe o' possum
and carb, both audio proficient

I simply thought of something....Anyone e'er try soaking their carbs in Efferdent, the stuff folks soak their dentures in?......

I think I will buy some and try it on a lawnmower carb in my Cajun O'Possum cookpot,merely as presently as I become supper done, it could stand a good degreasing and cleaning!....
... results will exist posted

Ya, I tried it one time, simply then I couldn't go the carburetor back in my oral cavity!! :confused: :dislocated: :( :( :(

Woofer,
That sure must have been one gigantic carb.

To clean the carb buy a gal of laquer thinner works skillful and under $x and you can salve it in the org container and reuse information technology..medico

Hey Chipper Dipper Doodle! Aye, information technology was...........the carb was a four barrel!! Ya! :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: Arf, arf, arf!!

Well, I have to report a limited success on useing the Efferdent, The lawnmower carb came out so-so but the pot retained also much chlorine taste and ruined our supper. I added a couple bottles of Tabasco and some Jalapeno peppers and the corn on the cob and sweetness 'taters were more passable.

I'thousand dorsum again, with two more problems re: the disassembly of my model "B" Rochester
carburetor 1. problem removal of master well support spiral, it is really tight and I don't
want to ruin it. Correct now I take been dosing it with WD40 and volition try it again
tomorrow. the second problem is with the bowl and the removal of the pump discharge
guide (part number 11 guide-pump discharge) the manual reads "tap lightly with small
spiral driver, outer edge of pump discharge guide to shrink lips, rotate slightly to
remove) I'1000 also dosing this with WD40 is information technology a friction fit? and is there a sure fire fashion of
removing this
Thanks

This is what I would try to remove the principal well support screw.Get-go have a screw commuter with a big blade that fits the spiral slot .I then would have some one place the bowl cover over a block of wood.Placing the area of the comprehend thats "behind" the spiral on the wood-rap the screw driver with a hammer to jar the spiral.Having the cover supported in this way should not harm it.If y'all have an affect driver it would be yet meliorate.While striking the impact driver it will flex slightly helping to unscrew a stuck commodities or screw.I don't believe that any penetrating oil will reach the threads.The white metal corrodes around the screw...The pump discharge guide usually will lift out by using a modest spiral driver and prying straight upwards.Getting forth the side of it and nether an end of the "T"will help.Turning is difficult as its pressed into the sides of the hole at the outter ends of the "T".Some times a needle nose will work also.Simply pull straight out.

Gene sounds like you got this trouble well covered! I have never had one that this method didn't work on, sometimes it took several raps with the large ball pein, and a six inch cresent wrench on a square bladed spiral driver also works afterwards the application of the hammer. I have seen some bowls ruined past clamping them in a bench vise.

Cheers guys I permit you know how it turns out :)

I must admit removing the main well support spiral is a three handed performance, I starting time
Tried the large spiral commuter, and so the large screw commuter and wrench with the aid of
My assistant (My Wife Marilyn) and then back to the large spiral driver several expert raps with the hammer and my assistant holding the carburetor with her hands and me pressing down has hard equally I could and the spiral bond finely broke free.
The pump discharge guide was some other challenge in not fully understanding the complete assembly, The “T” chevgene mentioned was clear merely afterward I got this trivial devil out and fully realized I was dealing with two parts instead of ane, at start I idea I bankrupt this part. However, every matter turned out merely great in the end and I am glad for the feel as well as going over my carburetor piece by piece to determine the overall condition
Thanks
Again

Besure that the vacuum controlled power piston is "very" free in its bore in the bowl cover.

the pump discharge guide

"The “T” chevgene mentioned was clear only later on I got this piddling devil out and fully realized I was dealing with two parts instead of one, at start I thought I broke this part."
I am not sure I fully understand still about this office when I started to reassemble the carburetor there was no way that this was going to stay in, so it must be ane piece instead of 2, Is this correct and if so does any one know where I can just buy the pump belch guide

Do y'all have an original 1950 low cover carb. or a 1952 high embrace?The low cover has most no flanfe on the edge of the bowl.The high encompass has most a 1/4" flange(requires longer screws)

Ok, ingoing dorsum to the corners of my mind the low embrace carbs. had a guide that looked almost like a flat spiral caput.I have non worked on 1 of these for years only in reading the transmission it is to exist reused after removing.The kits are set upward to embrace both fashion carbs. (has both encompass gaskets etc.) and it comes with the later T style guide.This is reinstalled in the little groves that the original was removed from.I am assuming that its too small to "hold" in y'all early on style hole.

http://www.geocities.com:80/picketfence/garden/4417/guidepumpdischarge.jpg
http://www.geocities.com:80/picketfence/garden/4417/guidepumpdischarge2.jpg

This is both sides of my Guide, Pump Belch from
my Rochester carburetor 7002050. The right side is a
separate slice from the left i with the stem going
into the spring, this piece when viewed from the
tiptop looks similar the caput of a slotted screw in
the carburetor, I thought it was a friction fit ?. When
I reassembled it there was no way it was going to stay
in place, with out the catafalque property it down. I've
checked this piece with a magnifier glass to see
if it was cleaved off and It doesn't announced to have
been. Could they have used a shellac to glue information technology in place
or is the slice broken. The gasket that covers the bowl
is different from the original, The original didn't
cover this and the new gasket does, I hope that's
not going to cause a trouble downwards the road

Thats the original broken in one-half.If y'all tin find some thin brass shim material to make it a "friction" fit to agree information technology in place it should be OK.Do you or are you using the correct gasket?Make sure that all the holes line up with the former gasket.The kits come with both the early and late gaskets.

Thanks chevgene
I will check that

:) Cheers Chevgene
The shim worked and I altered the casket, Hopefully I tin but this to residual and get
on to new projects